Sep 19 2009

Credit Card - What You Need To Know

One of the disadvantages of moderne nowadays is that people incline to evolve so many things they don’t really need. Numerous gadgets and services occurred targeting a vast market of consumers and this beginning of different inventions somehow blinded people.

Since finances-especially money-is one of the student concerns of many people, a broad regalia of business direction services and financial options emerged. One of the most visual among the unending line of business management services there are is the credit card.

Though many people evidence for the business lavatory you get when you administer for a credit card, it doesn’t meanspirited that every financing bathroom applies for you or for everybody in that affair.

When people distribute for a credit card, there is always a sanity. It can be for managing their assets, needing supererogatory money or in preparation to a big disbursement. But, no thing what the ground is, people concern for a credit card because of the last suitability it brings. By now, you may have had your part of ‘pre-approved’ credit card offers in your virtual and physical cataphract. Since people are quite defenceless when they allot for a credit card, any credit card issuers tempt these people by gift low prefatorial APR, no annual fee offers among numerous perks. The way of this so many alternatives and “value” deals is to shake the soul who wants to dispense for a credit card.

There are undeniably infinite lists of pros and cons when you touch for a credit card, but if you real have decided to pertain for a credit card, these are several of the laboursaving tips that can escort you on your credit card shopping traveling.

Actually, there are trio elementary steps you should obey if you have definite to dispense for a credit card. First, surf the net and do any research on credit game. By doing this, you can familiarize yourself with polar credit card position and types. Ordinal, you can likeness numerous credit cards that would optimal process your needs and lastly, you may now distribute for the credit card of your action by fill out a credit card exertion by visiting a funds symbolical or finished online.

In condition to conceptualise the right credit card winged and unhurried, first, before you pertain for a credit card, make sure you mastered the credit card cost. When you pertain for a credit card you staleness live what a “credit card” real is. Being a structure of appropriation that involves charges, credit cards usually have inexplicit credit position and conditions impress your gross cost. So, it’s good to comparability cost and fees before you deal for a credit card and hold to subject an relationship. Any of the important position to be appreciated symptomless allow the period percent assess or t

When you deal for a credit card, you moldiness fuck how the APR affects your credit calculate. Being a abstraction of the toll of credit spoken as a yearly appraise, the APR should be disclosed before you apply for a credit card so that you would not be supposed on the account and on your reason statements later on. Parenthesis from APR, the cyclic place must be unconcealed to the card bearer before they completely apply for a credit card so they would have an purpose of their striking fit and management take for each asking punctuation. Separate important damage to live before you pertain for a credit card are freeborn period or “thanks stop,” annual fees, asseveration like cypher daily match, familiarized fit, early component, and two-cycle balances. If you’re not that type of soul who is longanimous enough to research on all these terms, make reliable that before you administer for a credit card, the issuer give snap an account how the bear is computed and it moldiness seem on your monthly request statements.
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Jul 14 2009

Get Approved For Credit Cards

Approval
Getting approved for a credit card can be tricky without a positive credit history working in your favor. It’s a Catch-22 , to obtain a credit card, you need a good credit score. But to have a good credit history, you must create good credit! This no-win cycle can keep people with a non-existent, limited or negative credit history from getting approved for a credit card. But it doesn’t have to if you understand the type of credit cards available and how to build a good credit history. When it comes to credit card finder, the type of card you make an application for will depend upon your current position.

If you are a student, you may, naturally, sign up for a student card. But if you are a non-student with a non-existent or blemished credit history, a card that is secured or got with a co-signer could be your best option. Secured credit cards With a secured card, you secure the card by depositing cash up front in a deposit account or CD. The amount of funds you place on deposit will probably match your line of credit. Your card issuer maintains a lien on the deposit account, which you stand to lose if you fail to make timely credit card payments. online credit card applications

While many people have heard of secured credit cards, unsecured or regular credit cards are far more common. With an “unsecured” card, the issuing bank has no right to take precise assets of yours if you don’t pay your bill. Instead, the bank would have to sue you or make you into bankruptcy to collect. A secured credit card or Visa looks just like a regular one, and the law makes sure that it has all the same consumer protections. However, a secured card generally carries a higher interest rate. But a secured card could be a good deal because it can give you the ease of having a credit card while you’re employed on building or reconstructing your credit.

Mastercards with a Co-Signer With co-signed credit cards, the co-signer guarantees and is responsible for the debt. This means that the co-signing person is responsible for paying the whole amount of the debt if the card holder doesn’t pay. In truth, when co-signed debt goes into default, 3 out of 4 times co-signers are normally asked to reimburse what’s owed, according to the federal Trade Commission. Furthermore, the issuing bank can try to settle the debt without first making an attempt to collect from the card holder. The bank can also use the same collection strategies against the co-signing individual, including suing and garnishing salary. If the debt is not paid, it can leave a negative mark on the credit history of the co-signer, as well as the card holder. Regardless of the risks, a co-signed credit card can be handy tool for helping a chum or relative build their credit score so they can one day obtain a card on their own. Building a powerful credit history Secured, co-signed and pre-paid credit cards offer usable choices. But you need to start building a strong credit score, so you can get a regular credit card on your own in the future. First, you must know how credit card issuers identify credit worthiness. The approval standards varies from among issuing banks, but typically relates to what’s often called the three C’s of credit : capacity, character and collateral. Capacity refers to your ability to pay primarily based on your earnings and existing debt. Collateral makes reference to any assets you have that will secure payment,eg bank accounts or home possession. Character refers to factors like your payment history, length of job, etc .

To get a smart idea about how your application will fare with credit card firms, check your credit score with one of the major credit reporting agencies : Experian ( www.experian.com ), Equifax ( www.equifax.com ) and TransUnion ( www.tuc.com ). These agencies access your payment information without delay from the corporations you have credit with, as well as from state agencies such as the legal court system. Credit reporting agencies use the info in your credit history to ascertain your credit record or credit score. Credit worthiness scores, a. K. A FICA or Beacon scores depending on the CRA, generally range from 350 to eight hundred and fifty. Most banks will approve you for credit if your score is at least 620. If your rating is 720 or higher, banks will offer you their lowest IR. Generally, y our credit score is decided by your payment history for the last 2 years. T echnically, CRAs work out your score employing a closely-guarded formula. TransUnion, for instance, determines credit worthiness scores using a variety of factors, including : how you pay your accounts, how much you owe and how frequently you have asked for credit.

Jun 15 2009

True Credit Secrets

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Figuring out exactly how credit scores work is problematic. Like nuclear fission, learning Chinese and setting the clock on your DVD player, credit scoring is not something that most people can easily master.

In the complicated world of credit scores there is one fact that pretty much everyone assumes is true: late payments are bad for your credit scores. Not only are late payments bad, but they are also assumed to be one of the worst things you could do to your scores. The first sign of a late payment on your credit reports signals impending credit doom, right? It turns out that this isn’t exactly the case after all.

There are thousands of slightly different credit scoring models used today, each with a different purpose and formula. The most common credit scoring systems are set up to predict only one thing: how likely you are to have a 90 day late payment or worse in the 24 months after your score is calculated.

Credit scores are used by financial institutions, insurance companies and utility companies as an efficient way to predict how risky a customer you will be. If your credit score is low, it indicates that you are more likely to make late payments or file costly insurance claims. In turn, this means that the creditor is more likely to lose their investment by lending you money. Once you understand that credit scores predict this specific behavior, it’s a lot easier to figure out the best way to manage your credit.

Because scoring systems are so focused on predicting whether or not you’ll go at least 90 days late, surprisingly, an old 30 or 60 day late payment is actually not that damaging to your credit scores as long as it is an isolated incident. Only when your accounts are currently being reported 30 or 60 days past due on your credit reports, will your credit scores plummet temporarily.

If your 30 or 60 day late payments are an infrequent occurrence, this kind of low level late payment will damage your credit score only while it is being reported as currently past due. They shouldn’t cause lasting damage to your credit score after this period passes unless you make 30 or 60 day late payments on a regular basis. In this case, the fact that you are habitually late with your payments will cause long term damage to your credit scores.

It’s a whole new ballgame once you have a 90 day late payment, however. If you have been over 90 days late (even just once), the credit scoring models consider you much more likely to do it again. One 90 day late payment will damage your credit for up to seven years. From a scoring perspective, a single 90 day late payment is as damaging to your credit scores as a bankruptcy filing, a tax lien, a collection, a judgment or repossession. Being 90 days late causes you to be viewed as a possible “repeat offender” and a higher risk to creditors. Here’s a summary of how late payments impact your credit scores:

30 days late – This record will damage your credit scores only when it is reported as “currently 30 days late.” The exception is if you are 30 days late often. Otherwise, a 30-day late payment will not cause lasting damage.

60 days late – This record will also damage your credit scores when it is reported as “currently 60 days late.” Again, the exception is if you are 60 days late often. Otherwise, it will not cause long term damage.

90 days late – This record will damage your credit scores significantly for up to 7 years. It doesn’t make a difference whether or not your account is currently 90 days late. Remember, the goal of the scoring model is to predict whether or not you will pay 90 days late or later on any credit obligation. By showing that you have already done so means that you are more likely to do it again compared to someone who has never been 90 days late. As such, your credit scores will drop.

120+ days late – Late payment reporting beyond the initial 90 day missed payment does not cause additional credit score damage directly. However, there is an indirect impact to your scores. At this point, your debt is usually “charged off” or sold to a 3rd party collection agency. Both of these occurrences are reported on your credit files and will lower your credit scores further.

If you continue to miss your payments beyond 90 or 120 days, the following records may also harm your credit score:

Collections – Collections are the result of late payments. There are two types of collections; those that have been sold to a 3rd party collection agency or those that have been turned over to an internal collection department. Regardless of which one shows up on your credit reports, your scores will suffer.

Tax liens – Tax liens are obviously not preceded with late payments on any sort of account. However, when tax liens are reported on your credit files they have the same negative impact to your scores as any other seriously delinquent account. And, just because you pay off the tax lien or have it “released” won’t increase your scores.

Settlements – Settlements are deals made between you and a creditor who is trying to collect a past due debt. Normally, you and the creditor would agree on an amount that is less than what you really owe them. Once you pay them, they consider the matter closed and paid off. However, they will report that you have made a settlement for less than your contractual obligation. This will hurt your scores as much as any other serious delinquency.

Repossessions or foreclosures – Having a home foreclosed upon or a car repossessed are both considered serious delinquencies and will lower your credit scores considerably for up to seven years. The assumption normally made by the consumer is “hey, I gave the home or car back to the lender, why are they going to show me as delinquent?” The answer you’ll get from lenders is that you signed a contract with them to buy a home or car and pay it in full over a period of time. You failed to do so therefore they consider you to be in default of your agreement with them and will report this on your credit reports.

Remember, the goal of most credit scoring models is to predict whether or not you will go 90 days past due or worse on any obligation. What’s missing? The scoring models are not designed to predict whether you will default for any specific dollar amount. As such, having a 90 day past due of only $100 is as bad as having a 90 day past due of $10,000. The same goes for low dollar collections, judgments or liens. The dollar amount doesn’t matter. The fact that you paid late is what’s most important in the eyes of a credit scoring model.

Now that our late payment secrets have been revealed, let’s look at what it means to you. You should still avoid making late payments whenever possible. But we now know that one 30 or 60 day late payment isn’t the end of the world. Since 90 day late payments are the real credit score busters, you should avoid a 90 day late payment at all costs.

If you already have a 90 day late payment record on your credit history then your scores are already suffering. Be certain that the information is being accurately reported. If it isn’t then you have the right to dispute it with not only the credit reporting agencies but also with the lenders who reported it. Your goal is to have the item corrected or removed, especially if it is in error. Once removed or corrected your credit scores will immediately recover.

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Jun 14 2009

The Truth About 10 Credit Score Myths

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Credit scores are enormously important to both borrowers and mortgage lenders. In the same way that doing better in work, sports or at school produces real benefits, the same is true with credit scores.

With good credit you can borrow more and pay less. With a mortgage, a borrower with solid credit might pay the best available rate while someone with poor credit might pay an additional 1.5 percent. That doesn’t sound like a big deal, but on a $300,000 mortgage you’re looking at an additional annual cost of as much as $4,500.

There are a lot of questions concerning good credit and how to get it. Here are 10 basics that come up with great frequency.

1. I finished college a few years ago and did not pay a lot of bills. Now I want to buy a house. How can I improve my credit?

Negative items remain on credit reports for seven years (bankruptcies stay on for 10 years). However, mortgage lenders are particularly interested in your recent credit behavior, what you’ve done in the past two years or so.

To change your credit profile you need to make a point of paying every bill in full and on time. No exceptions. Your credit score will quickly improve.

2. Is it true you need a big income to get a good credit score?

No. Credit scores and credit reports do not show your income at all. This is why loan applications separately ask about income and assets. The issue with credit is not how much you earn, but whether you honor repayment obligations. It’s perfectly possible for someone making $45,000 a year to have a vastly better credit rating than someone who makes $200,000.

3. Can I use a federal employer number instead of a social security number to get a better credit rating?

No. Using an employer ID instead of a social security number to get credit may be illegal, a crime called “credit substitution.” It’s also foolish. No lender is going to accept an employer ID number. If someone suggests using an employer ID to get a mortgage, go elsewhere for advice.

4. If I have a strong payment history should I borrow a lot?

No. You should borrow both no more than you need and as little as possible. Credit scores consider the amount you owe as well as the credit available to you. Hitting credit card limits is a black mark and will reduce credit scores.

5. Is it better to have lots of credit cards or just one or two?

If you reduce the number of cards you have by combining accounts and debts, you might actually get a lower score. There are two issues to consider:

First, you have to watch credit limits. The general ideas is that the more of your available credit that you use the lower your score. For instance, imagine that you have five credit cards with different limits and in each case you have used 50 percent of the amount available to you. You then combine all cards into one card with a big balance but now you’re using a far-higher percent of your available credit line, say 90 percent. A better approach is to keep balances low and pay off credit cards as you can.

Second, while it makes sense to pay down credit card debts, it may not make sense to close accounts. The reason has to do with credit card history. The general rule is that the longer your history, the higher your score. The result is that you may actually want to keep older accounts open even if they’re not used.

6. I’m good about paying off credit cards but not some other bills. Will this impact my credit?

Yes. First, many credit cards include a so-called “universal default” provision. This means if any bill is late or unpaid, the credit card issuer can raise your rate. Second, other bills in addition to credit cards show up on credit reports and negative items are reflected in credit scores.

7. My mortgage payment is due on the 1st of the month but I’m allowed to pay as late as the 15th without penalty. If I pay on the 14th will this show up on my credit report?

No — but be careful here. A debt is considered “late” for credit reporting purposes only if it’s at least 30 days overdue. However, some unscrupulous lenders charge excessive fees and may even raise interest rates if payments are even a day late. If you have such financing you should consider refinancing to get better terms.

As to that mortgage payment, lenders typically provide a payment grace period because checks may be delayed in the mail and payment days may fall on weekends or holidays. However, since the bill must be paid anyway, it’s absolutely best to pay either early or on time.

You may find if you have a good payment record with mortgage lenders that they will be helpful if you run into problems. Example: Your mortgage payment is delayed in the mail and arrives after the grace period. A late fee is charged. You call the lender, they look at your payment history, conclude something is wrong and waive the fee. In other words, you get the benefit of the doubt because you’re credible.

Does this happen? You bet.

8. How often should I check my credit?

Given the growing problem of identity theft — the Federal Trade Commission says there were more than 250,000 complaints last year — it makes sense to check credit reports regularly. The good news is that you can get three free credit reports per year, one from each of the major credit reporting agencies, without charge, by going to AnnualCreditReport.com.

In addition, the Federal Trade Commission says under federal law “you’re entitled to a free report if a company takes adverse action against you such as denying your application for credit, insurance, or employment and you ask for your report within 60 days of receiving notice of the action. The notice will give you the name, address, and phone number of the consumer reporting company. You’re also entitled to one free report a year if you’re unemployed and plan to look for a job within 60 days; if you’re on welfare; or if your report is inaccurate because of fraud, including identity theft.”

9. What should I do if I feel a payment will be late?

Many creditors such as mortgage lenders, credit card companies, auto finance organizations and utilities now have several options for quick payments. You may be able to pay online, pay over the phone or pay by overnight delivery..

However, it’s wise to get quick payment information now, before it’s needed. For instance, some creditors have one address for regular payments and another for overnight deliveries.

If you feel a payment will not be made or will be more than 30 days late, contact your lender immediately. It’s often possible to work out an accommodation if you begin working with the lender as soon as possible.

10. Can I get a mortgage after a foreclosure or bankruptcy?

Foreclosure and bankruptcies are serious matters which are likely to make access to mortgage financing difficult if not impossible for several years. However, some borrowers are able to get mortgages again with some speed.

How? While foreclosures and bankruptcies are the worst credit events, they are not necessarily caused by consumer mismanagement or misdeeds. People have health emergencies. Companies close. Areas are devastated by natural disasters.

The bottom line is this: Mortgage underwriters want to know more about you and your situation. While loans may be approved automatically, declined loans are reviewed individually. Before looking for a home, speak with mortgage lenders if you have had a foreclosure or bankruptcy.

If you had a good credit record and encountered a financial catastrophe outside your control, lenders may be able to provide financing once credit has been re-established. Individual lenders can provide specific advice and information.

As the expression goes, it can’t hurt to ask.

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Jun 12 2009

How To Build A Solid Credit Rating From Scratch

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Building a solid credit rating from scratch is not as difficult as one might think. The reality is that you can establish a decent Credit Score in as little as 3 months and have a solid rating around the 12 month mark. From that point, if you maintain proper borrowing habits, you can have an impeccable rating for the rest of your life.

The key is to have a basic understanding of what actions affect your rating and to follow a basic strategy design to keep you within the limitations of those influences. If you are starting from scratch, never having had credit, here is an easy to follow step by step guide to establishing your credit. As well as suggestions on avoiding a few pitfalls along the way which could hurt, instead of helping if you fall into them.

Step 1) Check Your Report

While it may seem ironic, even if you know for a fact that you have never had credit before, checking your history is the first step. Your report contains more than just credit accounts on it and may have inaccuracies pertaining to other areas. I had a $500 phone bill attached to my report of which I had nothing to do with. In fact, it was tried to a business I worked for but had no ownership in nor any ownership responsibilities.

While it is fairly rare, you may be surprised to find out that someone else has been using your good name instead of you. With the expansion of the internet, this occurrence is not as rare as it use to be. Regardless, it is good to know for sure what you are dealing with. To learn where you can check your report for free visit Rebuild-Credit.us.

Step 2) Dispute Errors in Your Report

If, when you check your report you found no errors on your report than you can move on to the next step. However, if you did, in fact, find a discrepancy you will have to clean them up before you can go forth with your endeavor.

It is very important that you take the time to so, and go through any possible frustration that might arise as these errors left on your record will not only plague you, but cost you a lot of money. It is the healthiness of your report that lenders base the interest rate they will charge you.

This can literally cost you thousands of dollars in interest over the years and it will drive your monthly payments up for the same amount of money borrowed or charged. We have written and article to further assist you in clearing negative items from your report. This article; “How to Dispute Discrepancies in Your Credit Report” can be viewed at Rebuild-Credit.us.

Step 3) Secure Personal Credit

Once you have verified your report and have resolved any disputes that you may have found on within it, the next step is to secure credit. This is easiest accomplished by securing a credit card. The fact that you are not established as of yet will be a factor in where you should apply.

Rather than applying for a standard card and loan offers, start with accounts that are tailored to meet a specific need. Applying for a standard card before your rating supports the requirement can place unnecessary negative marks on your report. Each time you apply for credit and are turned down it is recorded negatively on your report and lowers your already low score.

Your first attempt at securing credit should be a gas card, a department store card, a secured card, or a prepaid card. These vehicles are specifically designed for the purpose of offering credit for those with a low rating, or for someone who has yet to establish themselves. It must be pointed out that you can expect to pay a higher interest as the risk is higher for the issuer.

In today’s boom, there are several quality guaranteed approved cards available for you to establish yourself with. Each make monthly reports to the reporting agencies which assists in improving your credit score. Providing that you make your payments on time, your score will climb to a high enough level where you can apply for a standard card with normal interest rates. Remember, it is best to seek out offers than to respond to those which come in the mail.

Step 4) Begin to use Your Card

Once you have obtained a credit card you need to use it regularly and pay the balance off in full each month. Many who get a credit card for the first time will take advantage of the opportunity to get that stereo they have been wanting or some other consumable.

You should never use your new card instead of cash, especially while you are trying to build your credit. Instead your goal should be to use your card to cover an expense that you normally pay cash for, like gasoline or perhaps your noon meal. Instead of spending the cash, save it and use it to pay your charges in full when the bill comes in.

Be responsible with your card and you will realize your score rising each month. The higher the Credit Score the lower your interest will be on the next card you apply for and your odds for approval will increase drastically, to mention your borrowing power.

Step 5) Review Your Progress at Least Quarterly

After you have used your card responsible for 3 months check on your credit progress. Providing you have been responsible you will notice your score has increased. Check to insure that all of your payments are being reported accurately. If you find and errors now is the time to take action on them to correct them before your portfolio gets out of hand. Monitoring your report regularly allows to detect possible credit fraud in its early stages as well.

Step 6) Increasing Your Limit

As previously discussed, once your Credit Score reaches various levels and you have proven yourself to be a good risk you will flooded with numerous pre-approved offers, and as stated, these offers are not always in your best interest with many bordering on Predatory Lending. While it is your objective to increase your limit to a comfortable level, it is best to do the research yourself.

Another site we would like to direct you to is Credit-Card-Rates.info. They offer detailed non-bias reviews on over 130 credit cards from leading providers such as American Express®, Discover®, Bank of America, Chase®, and more.

They also provide a pre-qualifying questionnaire that does not ask for specific personal information nor is any information gathered whatsoever. Once submitted the questionnaire returns all of the possible cards you qualify for. Each one links to a non-bias detailed review of both the pros and cons of the card’s benefits and rewards. Convenient online application is just one click away.

When using the questionnaire it is in your best interest to answer the questions accurately as it does provide an accurate result to the cards you qualify for. This will help you to keep from getting negative hits on your report for applying to cards you don’t qualify for yet.

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Jun 12 2009

CREDIT CARDS: Rules And Fees

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Learn about the costs and rules of the card.
What is the annual fee and are there any costs in acquiring the credit card? What is the interest going to be after the initial 90-day teaser interest rate vanishes? What is your credit limit and what is the penalty if you go over the limit? How and when can your interest rate and credit limit be changed? All of this information is located in the fine print section of your credit card agreement and you have an obligation to pay these fees and costs if you accept and use your credit card. These terms and conditions come into effect as soon as you start to use the card. Below is a list of the different fees imposed by credit card companies.

The Annual Fee: Many bank and Travel & Entertainment Cards come with an annual fee of $50 or more. The borrower is charged this fee for the privilege of using this credit card. Some banks will waive this fee if you have outstanding credit or may charge more if your credit is marginal.

Cash Advance Charges: A bank will charge you up to 3% of the amount advanced and at the same time charge rates of up to 20% annually on the amount advanced. As a general rule, credit cards should not be used for cash advances except in the case of an emergency.

Late Payment Fees: Many credit card companies charge late payment fees. Since the date refers to the day of receipt of your check and not the date of postage, you must be certain to get your payment out in a timely fashion to avoid this fee. Remember, this fee will be added to your outstanding balance and interest will be charged on the total amount.

Over-the-Limit Fees: If you carry high credit balances each month and do not pay them, your high credit card interest charges will accrue and could push you over your pre-approved credit limit, prompting the creditor to charge an over-the-limit fee. These fees vary by issuer. Remember, these fees will automatically be added to your existing balance, which will be charged interest.

One Time Fees: These fees are usually assessed to consumers with poor credit and are charged in addition to the annual fee. These fees are charged at the time you apply for the card and can range from $25 to $100 depending on the issuer.

Transaction Fees: These fees are charged by the issuing bank. The charge is usually 50 cents for every transaction you make with their card.

Returned Check Fees: A credit card company will charge you a return check fee for checks that are returned for insufficient funds. You would also be liable to your bank for another fee for writing the bad check. Plan your finances accordingly to avoid these costly fees.

Transfer Fees: If you decide to transfer your existing balance to another credit card company, you may have to pay a transfer fee to your current credit card issuer before your balance can be transferred to the new account. These fees can range from a flat rate of up to $50 or a fixed percentage amount of the balance that is transferred. Understand these costs before you jump from one credit card to another just to get a low introductory credit card rate.

Minimum Finance Charges: Pay off your existing balances each month and, depending on your credit card issuer, you could be charged a fee for paying your balance in full.

Inactivity Fees: These are fees that are charged to your account for inactivity on your account. Not using your credit card could cost you money if this fee is in the contract you signed when you acquired this credit card.

Review your account statements and mailings from your credit card company.
Immediately review these statements and confirm the charges with the receipts for all of your purchases. You should do this to challenge any charges that are incorrect and to guarantee that there are no fraudulent charges being billed to your credit card. There are federal consumer protection rules that assist you in challenging charges with your creditor. To be fully covered by these laws you must send a letter to your creditor within 60 days of the date that the bill was sent to you and document the error on your statement. If such charges continue, stop using the card and close the account.

More importantly, if you have just applied for a credit card and have been approved, you should wait until all of the paperwork arrives from the company to make sure you are fully aware of all of the terms and conditions found in the fine print. If you do not understand all of the information provided to you, talk to the customer service department and get all of your questions answered to your satisfaction before you use the card. Once you use the card, it is implied that you have agreed to all of the rules and you are automatically responsible for any fees and charges.

Keep your original card agreement and any change notices to your account.
This paperwork is your contract, containing all of your terms and conditions for the use of the credit card. These are the only documents you can refer to that will help resolve a problem if a disagreement arises in the future. They will also answer the following procedural questions:
# How to notify your card company if you purchased a product with your card that is defective and the merchant is not be responsive to your needs?
# What is your liability if your card has been fraudulently used?
# How are cash back awards paid out if you cancel before the expiration date?

Considering a New Credit Card?
If you are considering opening a new account you should consider asking these questions while reviewing credit card offers or re-evaluating existing cards:

# Fees: Are there annual fees, late payment fees, overdraw fees for exceeding your credit limit, cash advance fees, or fees for paying off your credit card in full each month? Be aware of transfer fees. They can be costly if you decide to transfer a balance to a new credit card. Can one fee trigger another fee? (i.e. if you are charged an annual fee and it pushes you over your credit limit can the bank charge you the over-the-limit fee?)

# Interest Charges: What is the Annual Percentage Rate (APR) on the card? Is the advertised low introductory rate going to drastically change after several months? What interest rate will you pay on transferred amounts? How will your interest be calculated: average daily balance (most common) or another system that may cost you more? Is there a different interest rate for cash advances than for other uses of the card? Can the interest rate be changed without prior notice, and if so, under what circumstances? (i.e. if you are late on a payment.)

# Grace Periods: Does the lender give you time to send in a payment before interest is charged on your account balance? If so, how long is the grace period and does it apply to new purchases versus old purchases that are still on your account? How many days before the due date will the lender give you before imposing a fee for a late payment?

# Miscellaneous: What is your credit limit and what are the restrictions on the credit card freebies such as frequent flier miles, cash rebates or other bonuses? What is the company policy on sharing or selling information about you to other companies or charities that might want to contact you? Can you “opt out” if you do not want this information provided to anyone else?

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Jun 11 2009

Credit Cards Knowing This Can Save You When Choosing One

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When it comes to credit cards there are so many choices out there it can be really confusing when trying to determine which credit card is the best choice. We are all different with different likes and different habits and credit card companies know this, and have created card fee structures that differ according to peoples habits and circumstances. While a specific card might be perfect for one person, it might not be as desirable for another, and might even hurt that person financially because there habits or circumstances are such that they are incurring fee’s that they wouldn’t be incurring had they selected a different card. In consideration of the last sentence we really need to identify these habits and circumstances, and then take an honest evaluation of ourselves to see which habits or circumstances we practice or have. At this point we will be able to better identify the credit card that makes the most sense. In adition to this we will be able to see that different use strategies are appropriate for different habits and circumstances. While there are many habits to examine there are two primary habits that need to be examined first because they the have the most impact on how we should choose, after that we will examine other habits and circumstances.

An outline of habits and circumstances as they relate to credit card holders

Habit #1 Carrying a balance on your credit card.
This can be a good thing for building and maintaining high credit scores as long as the balance does not exceed 50% of the total available credit. If the balance is substantial than an important card feature for this person should be the annual percentage rate or APR. If this person exceeds 50% of there available credit they should either pay it down or get another card and spread the balance out as this can improve their credit. typically you should only use between 30% and 50% of your available credit. The following is a definition of APR. APR stands for annual percentage rate and is the interest that the issuing bank will charge you. Some banks will advertise an introductory APR. Introductory APR’s will generally last anywhere from 6 months to 15 months and then your APR will go to a higher APR. Another type of APR is called a variable rate. This type of APR generally fluctuates according to an index such as the prime rate or the 1-, 3- or 6-month treasury bill rate or the federal reserve discount rate or the federal funds rate. You can find these indexes listed online. An important note is not which index your issuing bank chooses but rather the formula they use to determine your rate. These formulas usually look something like this, [ index + margin = rate] or [index x multiple = rate] or [index + margin x multiple = rate]. The margin and multiple can be any #. These formulas can make a huge difference in how much money you pay so be sure to read the fine print so that you can determine how your APR will look over the course of you holding the credit card. These are the two most common types of APR but there are others, So by reading the fine print you can be informed.

Habit # 2 Paying our balance in full every month.
If this is your habit then you want a card that has #1 A grace period that says in essence if you pay your balance in full every month that you will not incur a finance charge. #2 No annual fee. #3 Rewards of some type. After all there are a lot of card issuers competing for your business you might as well be getting rewarded for using their card, and being a good customer. This person should also be aware of a specific use strategy that is outlined in another article I wrote which can be found in the resource section under Credit Card Articles at my web site which is referenced in the author section following this article. The article is entitled “Credit cards the secrets on how they affect your credit” if this is your habit, seriously, read this, it could mean the difference between good credit and bad credit.

Habit/Circumstance # 3 Traveling
Many people travel often and and don’t have a rewards card that rewards them with free air travel. If this is you consider a program that offers compensation for things put on the card in the way of air travel, some of these programs can be generous and offer securities for the traveler. A friend of mine received enough air miles from his normal card usage to take his family of 5 on a vacation to Hawaii from california and he didn’t pay a dime on airfare. A few things to remember about these cards is #1 They often have an annual fee generally ranging from $25 to $75 but if you use your card enough and travel enough this is not a factor. #2 Some of them have a slightly higher annual percentage rate but they may also have a grace period so if you pay your balance in full every month than this is not a factor. #3 As in the case with applying with any credit card, please , read the fine print. I just got off the phone with a friend of mine that told me a story that I have heard so many times before, when he was young he got a credit card and didn’t read the fine print. Well as you can imagine he used his card in such a way that he incurred fees that he was not able to pay off in a timely manner. Credit cards need to be used properly, when this is done good credit results and thus a position of financial leverage can be attained, when they are used inappropriately bad credit results along with regrets and financially challenging circumstances.

Habit # 4 We shop at specific places over and over again.
If we get gas at the same gas station every week or we drink starbucks every day or we go to disneyland every month
or we buy books from boarders books every… and the list goes on. If this is us we should try and find a credit card that givesn us in the ball park of %1 to %10 percent back toward purchases at our store of interest, others will give1% to 5% cash back on our card for purchases at select stores. Right now the buzz is all about cards that give %1 to %10 back toward gas purchases. With the way gas prices have been rising this is not a bad idea. Some of these cards will also have other great features like no annual fee. and possibly a low introductory APR.

Habit #5 We are sometimes late on our bills.
Many of the credit card issuing banks will raise your APR sharply if you are late on even one payment.
Some times the due date for payment will not only have a day but also a time such as 1:00 pm. If your 1 minute late your rate is going up as if you had power over when the mail is delivered. If this is you be careful. Just a note, this can happen to anyone after all, unforeseen occurrences happen every day. If this does happen to you its not the end of the world. Usually issuing banks will not report to the credit bureau’s for thirty days after the due date so as long as you pay before then you will be OK. You may have a higher APR but your credit won’t be hurt and that’s the thing you really don’t want to happen. On this last point don’t take my word for it, find out from the issuing bank what their policy is regarding reporting and select a card accordingly. Trust me this is an important feature to know about

Circumstance #6 Challenged Credit or no credit or never had a credit card before.
If this is you consider a credit card for rebuilding credit such as a secured card. With this type of card you deposit money into an account and then you are given a card that is equal to your deposit, in this way you can not exceed your limit, and just about anyone can qualify for this type of credit card, as well as this you have an opportunity to build credit history, and if you use your card appropriately and pay on time, often times the issuing bank will turn this secured card into an unsecured card. This can be a very affective way to reestablish credit or attain a credit card for the first time.

Circumstance #7 we have an existing balance on a credit card
Maybe we have balance of $9,000 on a credit card, and we made one late payment on it, and the interest went through the roof however we still have good credit, and we are a good customer overall other than that one late payment. We might consider a balance transfer credit card. Things we want to look for are #1 if there is a fee for transferring a balance to the new card and how much #2 is the balance transfers’ APR fixed for the life of the balance or will it go up after 6 months to a year, even if it does go up after 6 months this might be a good strategy if we plan to pay it off before then or if we plan to transfer it again, and sometimes these APR’s that go up after 6 months to a year can be 0%. This could make sense even if our APR was low on our previous credit card because you just can’t beat 0%.

Circumstance #8 We have excellent credit
Then we should be able to find a credit card that has all the features we can reasonably expect at rates that are extremely competitive.

Circumstance #10 we are a student.
Students should consider student credit cards because if they have never had a credit card before they will have a better chance of attaining a student credit card as the issuers give students more leeway. Studies have found that students are often more responsible with credit cards than other youths and are more likely to pay what they owe.

Hopefully this article was helpful. I know that this article did not and could not address every concern facing us when considering how to choose a credit card but these are some of the most asked about topics when it comes to the subject. There are many cards out there that are hybrids and will encompass many habits and circumstances, So then we may not be isolated to one circumstance or habit. If you need more information regarding credit cards credit scores rebuilding credit ext.. Please visit my web sites resource center , You can find the web site address in the author box bellow.

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